Showing posts with label Making the Carriers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Making the Carriers. Show all posts

Sunday, June 29, 2014

But is it durable?!?



"Are your carriers durable?" I've gotten this question several times, especially about the linen carriers. After all, linen is so genteel. It's so drapey and pliable, and makes you think of a garden party dress, or a fancy tablecloth. Your grandmother's tablecloth. And therein lies the clue - your grandmother's tablecloth is still in nearly pristine condition after being handed down for two generations!

In various social media and in the shop, I've mentioned the updated testing required under the Consumer Protection Safety Improvement Act. This testing reviews the written instructions for how to put the carrier on, tests fall hazard for the stated lower weight limit, and checks content and size of font used on the newly required "Warning - Fall and Suffocation Hazard" labels. It also checks safety and durability of the carrier through a unique combination of testing.

Very grumpy Tester Dummy wearing Gracie
and Sam Linen Luxe Half Buckle Mei Tai
After tying the carrier on to a test dummy using the enclosed instructions, the stated upper weight limit of the carrier is checked (35 lbs for these). The lab then uses a weight that is 2x that upper limit (ie, 70 lbs) and rigs it 1"above the seat of the carrier. It is then dropped 1,000 times. Seams are checked, fabric examined, and the knots and buckles looked at (must have less than 1" of slippage over the course of those 1k drops). Then the lab technician prepares a weight that is 3x the stated upper limit (ie, 105 lbs) and sets it in the carrier for 1 minute. The seams, fabric, and knots/buckles are then checked again.  If all is well, you pass the safety and durability test. If there was more than 1" movement or if a seam or spot of fabric is looking worn, you're in trouble.

No matter how confident you are that you make safe carriers, that kind of wear and tear will set you on edge awaiting the outcome. I opted to pay the return shipping for my "carrier carcass" so I could see just how much wear and tear it would exhibit. I'd always answered that my carriers were durable to the point they'd outlasted the children for whom they were used, but this would provide a true and measurable response!

I was expecting a somewhat stretched seat - you know how the knees on your jeans get after spending the day squatting down.
I was expecting a show of strain on the box stitching at the shoulders - not pulled stitches, but at least a show of wear on the fabric around it.
I was expecting ...something I didn't get.

Ladies and gentlemen, I present the fully tested carrier, received back from the lab, and it's twin, brand new and ready to be sent to the mama who ordered it. These are part of the Gracie and Sam (LLC) Linen deLuxe line, in the half buckle version, made from 5.3 oz, double layered, Loden Green 100% linen.
Can you tell which is which?
No baggy seat. No shredded seams. None of those curved edges pull out of whack.
Here - let me help:
A few closeups?
Shoulder seams and box stitching:

Waist buckle stitching:
Inside waist belt:
 
The carrier passed the safety and durability testing without issue, I'm happy to report.

Unfortunately, I do need to redo those Warning labels before this carrier is signed off as fully compliant. See the problem?  No? Here's a close up:
Yes, folks - I used a serif font for the first two lines where regulations say it should've been sans serif. And there's not enough white space between the hazard categories.

Rest assured, I've had the labels redesigned and printed in their much larger and sans serif incarnation. So I fully expect to have a full compliance approval with my next test. But the important part is already cleared. You can wear with confidence. And know that your carrier will look as beautiful 1,000 uses down the road as it does the day you received it!




Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Getting What You Wish For - Design Suggestions

I have been talking lately with the babywearing crew in Phoenix, AZ. I got in touch with them because they are hosting this year's International Babywearing Conference (more on this later). Like many babywearing chapters, they have a lending library, and I offered to send them a carrier for it. I was pretty excited when they accepted my suggestion of choosing one of my new Linen deLuxe carriers, and I asked for any feedback, "wish-it-had...", and "don't change this" thoughts about it. My carriers have been updated many times as I thought of tweaks, and have changed further as I've heard from the mamas using them. This was a great opportunity for "Gracie and Sam" to learn from the women who teach other women how to wear their babies!

There's always something that can be improved. And when you send your carrier to not just one babywearing chapter leader but a whole group of them, you're bound to get some comments back.
Boy, did I ever. It. was. AMAZING, the depth of comments and suggestions they returned to me.

First of all, I'm thrilled to share that none of the feedback was structural or safety-related. As far as the overall body of the Gracie and Sam carrier is concerned, they felt it was "solid."

A few changes I've started implementing based on what they said, which should make these carriers even more comfortable are:

Suggestion: Make the headrest padded or reinforced to be a bit stiffer.
Gracie and Sam: The Linen Luxe line now has a padded headrest as a standard. The "Refined" line of carriers has it as an option to add on (some mamas still prefer getting the folded carrier as flat as possible, so it's been made optional there).

Suggestion: Change how the hood attaches (to the outside instead of inside, reverse the snaps, make the base a bit wider, and have the toggles anchor through a loop instead of around a button (pretty, but too attractive to the baby who then tries to pull it off!).
Gracie and Sam: done, done, and done! The hood is a standard in the Linen Luxe line and more and more wearers are requesting an add on hood with their Refined mei tai order. This change in design applies to all of these.

Suggestion: Make the pocket open some other way so it's easier to get into even when baby is in the carrier
Gracie and Sam: done! It now has a top opening, but remains pleated so you can fit even slightly bulkier things in there (cloth diapers, anyone?)

Suggestion: The top-stitching on the inside of the shoulder strap bothered some ladies where it rubbed on the neck.
Gracie and Sam: I've modified how the top-stitching is done and reversed how I attach the shoulder straps. The inside edge of the padded area of the shoulder straps is now without any seam or top-stitching. I do continue to top-stitch the rest of the entire perimeter of the full length of the strap to help keep it tidy and laying flat, though!

Suggestion: The shoulder straps and waist strap could be a bit longer for doing a wider variety of wraps (ie, Tibetan or over/under legs before tying off).
Gracie and Sam: The straps on Gracie and Sam Refined and Luxe carriers are already on the longer side, and I've heard from some who are only interested in the basic carries that they wouldn't want the straps much longer. For those who know they're going to want to explore various "carries" or are already experienced, there's an "add-on" available for additional length. This has always been available to custom orders, but now it can be added at the time of purchase by anyone without getting in touch for a special listing!

There was one suggestion I will not be working with just now, but want to share here in case you'd like to request a customization. Some of the ladies who tried out the Luxe with my standard 4.5" wide padded strap felt they'd like it either wider to fully cup the shoulder or narrower. I'm leaving it as is for now because I've received a lot of feedback on the comfort of the straps as they are. But I'm happy to make any adjustment if you think you'd like yours narrower or wider.

I love feedback. I love hearing from people that they love their carriers. I also love hearing suggestions on what could make it even better. If you have a Gracie and Sam carrier and have come up with an "I wish it had..." thought, let me know!

Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Diversification and Amplification

I love the Mei Tai carrier I make. I designed it through lots of trial and error, trying out other carriers, and refining it all into something that was exactly what I was looking for. After several suggestions and requests, I am now going to expand the shop's offerings to reflect the spectrum of and variation that makes up the contemporary understanding of the Mei Tai. Three new lines will be added over the next few weeks as part of this effort:

The Classic. This is the traditional mei tai as it's been used for centuries. No padding in the straps, a simply shaped body, and straps that are still one-size-fits-most but a bit shorter. It is extremely compact, gets the job done, and is a great match for the very budget conscious.






For a bit of extra excitement, I've also added children's Doll Mei Tais as part of this line! No more leaving Teddy by the swing set because two hands were needed - now tag along loveys can be carried along with the same hands-free joy you've found through your own carrier!







 

The Refined. The Gracie and Sam signature Mei Tai with its longer straps, padded shoulders, shaped body, buckle waist option, and a wide variety of fabric choices, with a focus on custom-printed fabrics found through original textile artists.



The Artisan. The full-feature carrier for the discerning baby wearer who would like some of the bells and whistles of the well-known, mass-produced, made-in-China carriers while getting the care and attention to detail that comes from being handcrafted.


 
And then there's the line that reflects the textile artist in me, The Gallery Mei Tai. These are simply shaped Mei Tais with a gasp-worthy, foundation-pieced eye catcher of a body. High quality, non-fusible interfacing is used as the foundation to ensure these pieces of art are as sturdy as they are usable.

I can't wait to share these new additions with you! The pieces are ready*, the photo session set, and within a week or so, they'll be available for purchase!

*The Artisan will not be immediately available.

Saturday, October 12, 2013

Details that Matter - Soaking and Prewash

Continuing the discussion of why Handmade / Handcrafted matters, have you ever thought about what happens with the fabrics in items you purchase? Ever notice how they seem to fade a few washes later? Wonder if the item is going to shrink? Want to use it right away, but worried about any manufacturing chemicals in the cloth? As I keep saying, I make a carrier based on what I like to use, and I pass that on to my customers.

After sourcing unusual or unique fabrics, I set the vibrant colors in a vinegar pre-soak - this helps to stabilize the dyes used in fabric ink and repels hard water minerals and residue from laundry detergents.
The occasional vinegar wash after you receive your carrier will help keep the colors looking fresh, as will ensuring proper washing settings.

Then I wash (on cold, delicate) and dry (cotton setting) the fabric so any chemicals and starching are removed and any shrinkage is already taken care of.

It takes time and adds a couple extra steps, but that's just part of being handmade!

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Under Construction - Sewing Safety

Note: This post was originally written 7/23/12 and transferred to this site 9/17/13.

In making baby carriers to sell, I'm constantly looking at two major aspects - how to ensure the carriers are as safe as I can make them while cutting out anything superfluous in order to mainstream construction to keep costs down. These two areas of consideration come to a crossroads in one of the most time consuming aspects of my Mei Tais - how much stitching goes into the points of intersecting fabrics.

In one Gracie and Sam Mei Tai, there are just over 70 FEET of stitches. Some of the longer stretches of stitching are things I've considered getting rid of, such as top stitching the entire perimeter of the shoulder and waist straps. But it keeps everything looking tidier, makes folding it easier, and as a mom on the run myself, those are features I really appreciate. So the perimeter continues to get fully topstiched. The area that is padded on the shoulder straps could simply be anchored in a couple places to keep the cotton batting from shifting, but by creating 3 "tubes" of stitching over the multi-layered batting, it helps to keep it plumper while staying dense, lets it grip the contours of the shoulder to prevent slipping, and really can extend the life of batting that might get washed more frequently. So the padded area topstitching stays.

Both of those are helpful in differentiating Gracie and Sam carriers, but it's the attention to detail that goes into those fabric intersections that I'm most proud of. In connecting just one 4.5" shoulder strap to the body, there are 30 inches worth of stitches. How do I pack so much sewing into one little concentrated area? I'm glad you asked...

First, when I'm putting the components together and everything is still inside out, I backstitch three times - on the left side of the strap where it joins, over the center where it's going to have significant weight bearing stress, and on the right side where it joins.

Then I turn everything right side out and topstitch around the entire carrier. This creates another set of stitches 1/4-1/2" down the fabric from where all that original seam work was. This is important because too much sewing in one place ends up weakening the overall fabric rather than working together to create tight bonds.

Finally, I go back and do full box stitches, catching the length of the strap I left inside the carrier for this purpose.

The time that goes into these stitching features is considerable. It accounts for 25-30% of my time at the sewing machine. I could increase my profit margin or lower my selling price if I were to omit some of this seemingly-redundant stitching. But I sell a carrier that I carry my own children in, and that kind of concern over safety and attention to detail is important to me. And that's the beauty of a handcrafted carrier - it's made by someone sitting at her machine thinking about the child that will eventually sit in what she is crafting, not by a nameless individual in a factory doing just their part on an assembly line.